Restart on WaveRace

The raw blank with poured rail and outline
Rail made with epoxy and glass balloons
Extra 15mm layer bagged down to first

Overall 5´8" length

Bottom of blank
will shape top side and put rocker in later

The little wonder pump

Bagging the 2 layers of foam together
used epoxy and glass balloon mix to glue together

Waveboard started

Decided to use the "poured edge" technique on this 5ft 8in wave board

I used a simple foam template to route groove.
The template is smaller than board outline by router plate and bit distance.
Only made one half of outline and a tail profile.

Ready for Paint

The fins look lethal

Rocker

3 strips of UD carbon on bottom
3 + 2 on deck

Vacuum Bagging Race Board

All the materials cut and ready to go

Rocker Table with V-bag

Vacuum working
Laminating botton of board first

Weight to hold down board to rocker table

Intalling finboxes

Checking out fin placement

Traifa Fin Company race fins 25 and 10cm, 25 degree cant angle

Looking fast

Gluing with Epoxy

Raceboard inserts

Inserts ready
M6 stainless steel

Set up for 3 footstraps - 2 forward positions

Shaping the blank

Blank is out of the bag and shaped to outline

Tapering down the nose area to 15mm thickness with planer

All the rails shaped

The rocker will be formed in V-bag

Race Board - Making the Blank

Outline of Race Board 5´8"

2 layers of H80 Divnycell 15mm

Ready to bond them together

In the V-bag. Epoxy with glass balloons for glue and 2 layers of 6oz glass between around fin-box area for sheer strength.

Finished Woody

The Deck

Massive concave

My custom handle

Constant Rocker

150x 42

Blank out and cut to shape

I pulled the blank out the of bag with 4 layers and decided that i needed to add another layer and an additional decorative layer on the deck.

Here i am cutting out the outline with a jigsaw.


The rough cut. I then sanded it on my home-made beltsander table. Look at earlier posts if you want to see it.
Those layers are totally glued and homogenous. Could not get the cutoffs to delam.
The blank weighs 1980 grams. Quite heavy- but will only need 1-2 layers glass each side.

Woody in the V-bag

A broken furnace and replacement got in the way of this project. But now the 4 layers are in the bag. Hope there is enough epoxy- I went and did it without a test.
Down hard onto form.
The little wonder.
Massive concave and constant rocker.

Wood Board 1

Starting a new board using Abachi veneers 1,5mm thick in the core.
2 longitudinal layers and 2 45degree layers in the middle. I plan on putting a final top and bottom layer of Western Red Cedar as a cosmetic finish. Then a thin glassfiber laminate.

I´m starting by using a board form i already have. Massive concave and a moderate and constant rocker. Its a Ocean Rodeo knock-off and i have a Mako 150x34 that is my favorite board.

Previously i made a shorter and narrow version to see if it would be better in high winds- but the OR Mako is till better and more forgiving in high winds and chop.

This time i´ll be making a wider version to see if it will have better lowend and still work in the high end. The Mako Wide 150x40 has had so many positive reviews, so its worth a try.

Mostly i enjoy the building process, its not an economical exercise.

This fist pic shows how i have the first layer which will be the bottom. I have "fit" the edge of the veneer.



You can see that there is a gap at the ends due to the curvature of the board. This is why it necessary to fit the edges.Its very simple to sand the edge to fit.
The 45 degree layers are easy to fit.
The 2nd 45 degree layer
The last layer

Next step is to glue it all together by vacuum bagging it all to the form with a one-sided V-bag.

The Final Board